Zanskar News & Views

archiving

Seb Mankelow — 2010-01-21T13:05:14+00:00

This News and Views has now been archived under 2008 - 2009.
Zanskar News and Views 2010 is now up and running, if need be please remember to update your RSS feed from the new page.
A belated Happy New Year to anyone that reads this.

Kargil-Zanskar road improving...

Seb Mankelow — 2009-12-30T13:05:51+00:00

Reported earlier this month in the Daily Excelsior (scroll down to J&K abode of amity, secularism: Jora) Minister for Tourism and Culture Nawang Rigzin Jora confirmed that the Kargil-Padum road was in the process of being upgraded, some 70 crore has already been spent in this area and another 48 crore is earmarked for phase II. Jora also mentions 'Padam-Zanskar road', the budget for which is Rs 340 Crore. The budget would suggest that he refers to the chaddar/Zanskar river road, which as I reported several months ago is progressing rather slowly...

anyone for the chaddar?

Seb Mankelow — 2009-12-29T19:09:26+00:00

Apparently the chaddar is in condition early this year, Zanskaris were traveling on the frozen river before Losar (17th December), although of course by now conditions may have changed.

I've just received an email from a friend in Zanskar, Sonam 'Jimmy' Stobgais, one of the most experienced frozen river guides. Jimmy is free this year so if there is anyone thinking of dashing out in the next few weeks to embark on one of our planet's most rewarding treks, contact Jimmy to organise your chaddar/frozen Zanskar river trek. Jimmy's contact details can be found on the trekzanskar site.

stranded in Zanskar

Seb Mankelow — 2009-12-14T12:21:40+00:00

Reported on the REACH site some 150 people are currently waiting for helicopter flights out of Zanskar. Clearly the Pensi-la has closed and winter isolation has begun!

However, it does seem a little odd that so many people are waiting to get out of Zanskar. Perhaps locals were lulled into a false sense of security by the relatively late snows of previous winters. Admittedly there are some medical cases waiting for evacuation by helicopter, but aside from patients most Zanskaris are well aware of winter snow closing the road and they usually organise their urgent business accordingly. I wonder if migrant labourers or government workers remained in Zanskar later than usual and got trapped as snow closed the road? The helicopter service between Zanskar and Kargil should run reasonably frequently but despite government assurance the pilots of these relief flights always seem reluctant to fly into Zanskar, the weather is frequently 'not safe for flying' and rest assured if there is even the slightest chance that the chopper will get in, but not out, they will not leave Kargil. Pilots do not want to get stuck in Zanskar, the accommodation is generally basic, and furthermore once shut down the winter temperatures can make unprotected helicopter engines difficult to start.

when the glacier left

Seb Mankelow — 2009-12-07T22:36:52+00:00

The Boston Globe has just published 'when the glacier left', a timely article on climate change and the village of Kumi. The story accurately documents the water deficit that the Kumi-pa have been facing over the last couple of decades, and their efforts to relocate the village with a view to regaining water security by tapping the Lungnak river. The article is optimistic about their relocation prospects although it does point out the spectrum of problems that they face, from the spiritual technicalities of moving the family household to the environmental constraints of cultivating the unimproved, rocky soils next to the river.

Personally I think the greatest problem for the Kumi-pa will be the creation of agriculturally viable fields and the maintenance of the irrigation canal headworks, which are currently destroyed every spring by the rush of meltwater in the Lungnak. Yulang, on the opposite side of the valley is the only other village in Zangskar that draws water from one of the main rivers. Taking water from the Stod, Yulang does not have a water shortage, but even with a favorable topography their canal demands regular maintenance. Kumi's canal is a lot harder to maintain than Yulang's and for some distance it contours through a crumbling conglomerate cliff.

The Kumi-pa have their work cut out and they have yet to make the jump in full to their new settlement. Every spring they now decide which fields will receive their attention. As there was plenty of snow last winter they decided this year to cultivate their ancestral fields, their judgement proved correct and this autumn they reaped a good harvest. The temptation to farm the old fields and use the established irrigation network is understandable, but will no doubt delay the development and overall viability of their new fields. Indeed, I wonder if the Kumi-pa will ever make a complete transition, or whether Zagnskar's rapidly modernising economy will give the younger generations an alternative to creating viable fields at the new village.

Pensi La remains open

Seb Mankelow — 2009-11-12T10:14:17+00:00

Snowfall on the 9th November briefly closed the Pensi La, however after some clearance the road is again open and traffic between Kargil and Padum is still getting through. Kargil-Srinagar is also still open, whilst the Manali-Leh highway is closed and has been since October 19th.

More funding announced as ministers visit Zanskar

Seb Mankelow — 2009-11-04T22:07:43+00:00

Minister for Tourism, Nawang Rigzin Jora, accompanied by the ministers for Health and Roads & Bridges, visited Zanskar on October 25th. During their visit they laid a foundation stone for the new Zanskar Development Authority complex and they announced a bundle of funding packages to improve medical facilities, tourist facilities and the road link between Padum and Kargil. They announced a figure of Rs. 4.65 Crore (Rs. 4,650,000,000) for the "beautification" of Padum. That's a lot of beautification!

Personally I think the funding for the hospital and the maintenance of the road link is long overdue. I'm not sure about the beautification of Padum, in fact old Padum is still quite reasonable for a road-head town, it's Mane Ringmo that needs urgent attention. I'm not entirely sure what beautification entails but I am pretty sure a lot of the remediation could be avoided (and a lot of Rupees saved) if someone in charge came up with a plan to regulate the construction of inappropriate buildings and get the desired infrastructure right first time. It might even help if certain Government staff were not permanently out-of-station.

Zanskar's economy is moving with apace (contrary to the impression portrayed by films such as Journey from Zanskar). Discussing Rupees in Lakhs and Crores no longer prompts wide-eyed wonder. I'm not surprised that the current price of land in Padum is comparable to many parts of the UK.

To view the full story click here.

snow on the Pensi La and a few general comments

Seb Mankelow — 2009-10-13T12:20:14+01:00

Reports are coming through that the Pensi La has already received its first snowfall. I wonder if this heralds an early winter, or perhaps by claiming such a thing I am just getting carried away with unfounded media-type speculation! No doubt it made the last few die-hard migrant workers think, I suspect taxis were hurriedly commissioned by Biharis and Jharkandis heading for warmer climes.

Speaking of which I was fascinated and somewhat shocked to recently see that the summer population of Padum's Mane Ringmo is now dominated by migrant workers. Zanskaris were pretty much a minority in this area and in addition I am sure some Ladakh commentators would have been horrified by the number of leather jacket and sunglass toting youth. I must admit the condition of Mane Ringmo made me begin to agree with the descriptions that Padum often receives in guidebooks covering the area. The commercial end of Padum is now pretty bad, it's swamped by an inappropriate number of vehicles and concrete shops (many of which are permanently closed), not to mention the oversized and colourful pitched roofed guesthouses that would look more at home in Manali. Padum is in desperate need of a development plan, otherwise I fear it will make all the same mistakes that were made in Leh. Saying that at least in Leh most of the guest houses have been built along traditional lines. I understand that Zanskar might have a greater need for pitched roofs but do they really need to be bright green, and cannot a corrugated pitch be disguised beneath the parapet of a traditional flat roof?

chaddar road progress report

Seb Mankelow — 2009-10-07T20:36:56+01:00

I have just returned from Zanskar and having just rafted the Zanskar river I can report that progress on the chaddar road continues to be painfully slow. At the Zanskar end the road-head is now 1.5KM downriver of Tserac Do (the Oma Chu junction). At the Chilling end the road-head is around 1.5KM downriver of Tilad Do (the Kharnak river junction). This leaves around 50KM of gorge untouched and at the present rate of progress I would optimistically estimate a good ten to fifteen years before completion (probably more). Having rafted the river with a HIMANK crew in 2004 I recall watching their optimism drain out of the boat as rounding bend upon bend revealed either formidable cliffs or steep loose scree. The project is ambitious to say the least, I don't doubt that it will be completed at some point, but I wouldn't like to say when. The chaddar is however getting shorter, especially at the Chilling end where the road is already making the journey much easier/quicker.
A common belief in Zanskar is that relations with Pakistan have to deteriorate before construction speeds up. One must also remember that the current road plans were conceived under a BJP government and priorities have since changed.

Black topping 0.5KM downriver of Tserac Do

The true road-head 1.5 KM downriver of Tserac Do. You can see three yellow generators in the U-cut.

chaddar road completion date

Seb Mankelow — 2009-08-26T14:35:59+01:00

Reported in today's Daily Excelsior the minister for J&K Roads & Bridges has set March 2012 as the completion date for the Nemo-Padum-Tarch highway. Nemo-Padam-Tarch refers to the chaddar road, and I presume the road linking Padum with Darcha. Tarch, I hope, refers to Darcha, rather than Takh. My uncertainty here is based on a rumour that an alternative road route was being considered to avoid the avalanche prone Shingo-La, this proposal would redirect construction out past Phugtal and through Shun to Takh (a fairly non-descript point on the Leh-Manli road) near Sarchu. Hopefully, from an environmental perspective, the Shingo La and Darcha is still the objective, to push a road through Shun - although I am sure it will happen at some point - would be a travesty.

So, the chaddar - in this case the frozen Zanskar River - will seemingly have another few years of pedestrian traffic before the road supersedes the need to walk on the ice. Presumably the further the road penetrates into the gorge the more chaddar trekkers will take the unfinished road as the easiest and most guaranteed trail. The writing is on the wall for one of the world's great treks, sure, it has been there for some time, but this announcement is a reminder that the road will be completed eventually, whether it is March 2012 or a year or five after that!

Who knows, environmentally the road may be the saviour of the Zanskar gorge; once finished it will remove the not so conscientious toilet-roll trekking groups and it will cut down on the collection of fire wood. However, unchecked juniper harvesting will certainly increase and people will have year round access to some of the most isolated valleys in the region - what they will do with this access is anyone's guess. Financially the road will change the Zanskar Valley overnight, Padum will become the new Leh in terms of tourist attraction, this includes a squadron or two of Enfield Bullets... The economic shift will far outweigh any loss of earnings suffered by chaddar guides, cooks and porters. The standard of living will increase in Zanskar, it will be fascinating to watch, great for the Zanskaris but heartbreaking for those with even the slightest romantic attachment to the Valley. But then, 'that's progress'.

Review: Journey from Zanskar

Seb Mankelow — 2009-08-12T21:41:13+01:00

You might have seen the Journey from Zanskar trailer on youtube, if not maybe take a look. The film is based on the tenuous assumption that Zanskar is the last bastion of untainted Tibetan Buddhism, or rather, and let me quote this to get it right, Zanskar is "the last remaining original Tibetan Society with a continuous untainted lineage". Buddhism in Zanskar has apparently been preserved from 'destructive global economics' by the geographical barrier of the Himalaya, but the film predicts this will change once the chaddar road is completed, whenever that is. So basically, once production costs have been covered, the film is a fundraiser. It argues that in order to preserve Buddhist culture there is an urgent need to fund a Buddhist school in sTongde before the road to Chilling (and then on to Leh) is finished.

The slightly curious thing is the film fails to acknowledge that for some time Buddhism in Zanskar has been subject to, and has actively engaged in, so called 'destructive' global economic models and forces (one could ask if Buddhism in Zanskar has ever been totally removed?). For example, there is a shopping complex in Padum built and run by Phugtal monastery, there is also a hotel and selection of shop units built and owned by Karsha monastery (the hotel was originally leased out as a bar by Karsha monastery), and there are monks who own taxi businesses and dabble in all sorts of financial dealings. What's more the majority of Zanskar's Buddhist festivals traditionally celebrated in the winter have now been moved to the summer in order to coincide with peak tourist numbers. Looking further afield, tens of thousands of US Dollars already comes into Zanskar from Europe and the US to 'support' Buddhism in the region, to say nothing of the Crores of Rupees (1 Crore is 10,000,000) recently earmarked for monastery 'restoration' by the Zanskar Development Authority.

If indeed Buddhism is, as the Journey from Zanskar's Executive Summary suggests, destroyed by 'global economics', one wonders how the funding generated by this film will differ?

Don't get me wrong, I am all for improving Zanskar's schooling (even Buddhist) and raising the standard of living for Zanskaris, however, I think Journey to Zanskar creates rather than documents what is actually happening on the ground in Zanskar. Factually the film is contrived; it omits some fairly essential context, errs toward the romantic and tugs at wealthy Western hearts. If people want to help Zanskaris there are plenty of more pressing issues which desperately need funding. Improving medical facilities and awareness would be a good place to start, as would encouraging teachers to stay and teach in remote villages. Winter tuition would also be welcomed by many. In my opinion there are many more pressing issues than building yet another foreign funded school in central Zanskar.

HH the Dalai Lama to visit Zanskar

Seb Mankelow — 2009-08-10T11:45:22+01:00

His Holiness the Dalai Lama is set to visit Zanskar on August the 16th for 5 days. He is apparently scheduled to give a teaching in Padum - I wish I could be there for such an event, partly just to witness what will no doubt be an amazing turnout of people.

Before leaving His Holiness is also expected to visit Paldar, the small Buddhist community on the Kishtwar side of the Umasi La.

More demands from Zanskar

Seb Mankelow — 2009-07-10T19:28:45+01:00

Reported in the Daily Excelsior a deputation led by Zanskar MLA Feroz Ahmad recently requested a raft of initiatives and assistance for 'backward' Zanskar. Amongst the demands specific to Zanskar (they were lumped together with issues concerning Sankoo Block) were upgrading the capacity of Zanskar's High School education, improving healthcare facilities, the re-commissioning of Haftal micro hydro project (which has provided erratic power at best since its completion); the construction of an airstrip at Padum, (a survey has been conducted on the Ufti Plain); a J&K Police recruitment drive and improved storage of imported goods that supply the area through the winter months.

Once again Zanskar has presented a huge list of demands. I might be wrong but I can't help think that by presenting such a list the Zanskari delegation dilutes the urgency and seriousness of some of these issues. For example, lumping the improvement of healthcare with the massively unrealistic request of an airstrip serves only to divert attention from Zanskar's needy medical facilities, which could probably be improved at a fraction of the cost of an airstrip. I am sure all of these are issues deserving attention but some are clearly more pressing than others. If the Chief Minister wasn't making notes he's probably forgotten all but the last demand.

election results

Seb Mankelow — 2009-05-25T20:07:19+01:00

A quick summary of election results for Zanskar. NC's Feroz Khan won by securing 6552 votes, beating Congress candidate Ghulam Raza by 918 votes. I received a note from a friend in Zanskar several days ago who assured me that the 'dirty business of election is complete'. I would imagine it was not as dirty as the activities recently uncovered in our own House of Commons...

Polling in Zanskar was not without complication. Inhabitants of the Ralakung area voted on the 15th May, two days after the rest of the Zanskar constituency, as bad weather prevented the airlifting of polling staff in time for voting on the 13th. More on this story can be found here.

flying election materials

Seb Mankelow — 2009-05-07T07:54:06+01:00

Zanskar goes to the polls on the 13th (along with the majority of J&K). Helicopter flights from Kargil were scheduled yesterday carrying polling materials to remote stations across Zanskar. Several lucky Zanskaris also got to travel as they too are prevented from traveling by road as the Pensi La remains closed (expected opening first week of June).

more election preparation

Seb Mankelow — 2009-04-26T08:27:36+01:00

Another article in the Daily Excelsior documenting the sensitive and hyper sensitive nature of polling in Zanskar, and Ladakh as a whole. No doubt the deployment of security forces not only ensures the safety of the electorate but also aims to minimise 'creative' voting practices. In previous elections in Ladakh it has often been suggested that a relatively large percentage of the votes counted are from people that do not exist, or do not vote. It is good to see that even in Zanskar democracy is alive and well...

Indian election comes to Zanskar

Seb Mankelow — 2009-04-20T20:09:27+01:00

Polling for the Indian election is underway and as usual Zanskar hosts a rather large number of helicopter-served remote polling stations. However, due to snow still blocking the Pensi La, and the remote possibility of a little more falling this spring, an extra 49 polling stations will benefit from helicopter transport. More detail on this story can be found here.

If you were thinking that Zanskaris are probably more concerned with yaks and barley than the next Indian government then think again, for a small isolated population Zanskaris punch well above their weight when it comes to politics!

snow closes the Pensi La

Seb Mankelow — 2008-12-18T05:37:58+00:00

Recent snowfalls have closed the road into Zanskar from Kargil. Attempts were apparently being made to clear the Pensi La but it appears the region has had more snow today closing the Srinagar-Kargil road around Dras. Given that it is now mid-December it is likely that the road will remain closed now for this winter. Zanskaris will now look to sporadic helicopter flights and the chaddar, the frozen Zanskar River, for their next opportunity to get in or out of the Valley.

mobile up and running

Seb Mankelow — 2008-12-15T13:55:47+00:00

Apparently the mobile phone network in Zanskar is now up and running - what more could you want!

State elections

Seb Mankelow — 2008-11-01T20:56:21+00:00

The first phase of the election for seats on the J&K Assembly are taking place on the 17th November.

Out of eleven candidates put forward from Zanskar only six remain, the others failed to pass the scrutiny of the election authorities.

Watch this space for more details as they arise.

snow hampers September trekkers

Seb Mankelow — 2008-10-31T00:06:36+00:00

As well as closing the Leh - Manali road, the heavy snowfall on the 19th September (sorry this is a bit late - I have been busy and not keeping an eye on the news!) played havoc with trekking groups in Zanskar. Marco Vasta reports being stuck at Shade, whilst another group was reportedly stuck at Tantak waiting to cross the passes that lead into Shun. Groups also returned from the more popular Shinko La area, opting instead to return to Kargil by road.

Zanskar to go mobile

Seb Mankelow — 2008-10-31T00:07:28+00:00

For better or for worse (better if you are Zanskari, worse if you are a Western romantic) Zanskar is about to receive BSNL mobile coverage. The transmitter is apparently in situ and waiting for the last commissioning strokes before Zanskaris can use their much cherished handsets. This is a significant step up from Zanskar’s previous ‘mobile’ service which relied on the use of cordless handsets (designed for around-the-house use) in the bazaar!

I wonder if the Zanskaris will fall into the trap of offensive ringtones and overly loud telephone conversations in public about nothing particularly pressing. I await the ‘Om mane padme hung’ ringtone: I suspect it exists already.

More on the story can be found here.

ever thought of trekking in Kashmir?

Seb Mankelow — 2008-05-14T09:05:12+01:00

Reported in the Greater Kashmir, the trekking options west of Zanskar are about to expand. J&K Tourism has been given the go ahead to once again market the trekking and climbing opportunities available in neighbouring Kashmir. Getting insurance for such an area (Kashmir is frequently listed as 'no go' by most Foreign Office travel advisory services) may be tricky, but it may well be worth the effort as old trekking accounts and photos illustrate the wealth of country that has in recent years been largely off limits. Just think of the possibilities for longer treks linking Spiti or Lahaul with the green alpine meadows of Kashmir - I for one will be keeping a close eye on these developments.

Jimmy makes the news!

Seb Mankelow — 2008-05-05T16:17:14+01:00

Although not an earth shattering story, Sonam Stobgais (better known by many as Jimmy) a good friend from Zanskar, has made the Greater Kashmir online edition. The story provides just a tiny illustration that Zanskar's 8000+ inhabitants manage to generate more internal politics than most governments!

finally, the road is open.

Seb Mankelow — 2008-05-05T10:19:49+01:00

Reported in the Greater Kashmir online the road linking Padum to Kargil has finally reopened after early snow clearing attempts were thwarted by snow fall on the 16th April. A convoy bound for Padum - loaded no doubt with fresh veg, kerosene and other consumables - has been flagged off by the Chief Executive Councillor LAHDC Kargil, Asgar Karbalayee.

Zanskar-Kargil road not open yet

Seb Mankelow — 2008-04-18T14:17:06+01:00

In an unexpected turn of events, snowfall on the night of the 15th April hampered the operation of both Zanskar-Kargil and Kargil-Srinagar roads. The Zoji La was reported to be cleared and open by midday on the 16th, however the opening of the Pensi-La (which does not benefit from the snow clearing resources assigned to the Kargil-Kashmir link) has now been delayed somewhat. It looks like Zanskaris are going to have to wait for those fresh vegetables!

Zanskar-Kargil road open

Seb Mankelow — 2008-04-17T01:01:02+01:00

The Pensi La has been cleared and the road between Kargil and Padum is open (as of the 16th) for another season. It must be one of the earliest opening dates since completion of the road in 1980/81. Although Zanskar has received less snow in recent years the methods and resources for snow clearance have also improved. Just think of all those fresh vegetables arriving in Padum in the next few days...

Zanskar-Kargil road to open within two weeks

Seb Mankelow — 2008-03-31T22:34:39+01:00

Reports coming in from the field state that the road linking Padum with Kargil will be open to traffic within two weeks. Despite periods of heavy snow last winter the Pensi La is expected to be clear for vehicular traffic much earlier than usual. As the road is still closed and the chaddar is no longer navigable some 280 Zanskaris of all ages have recently been flown home courtesy of the Indian Air Force.

Animal Husbandry Department’s information campaign in Zanskar

Seb Mankelow — 2008-03-18T08:19:37+00:00

This Greater Kashmir article documents what was once a very rare event: Zanskar's Department of Agriculture leaving their warm office and visiting villages to impart their agricultural and animal husbandry know-how. Fortunately things have improved since the posting of Norboo and Rigzin, two enthusiastic (Zanskari) Junior Agriculture Officers. I must admit my faith in the department was reinstalled when I met these officers at a conference convened to tackle the Locust problem in 2006. Of course being Zanskaris these officers are local and passionate about the area, they are aware of the agricultural differences between Ladakh and the majority of India, and moreover, being posted to Padum is not considered to be a hardship as both hail from villages no more than an hour away by jeep. One only has to look at the problems staffing schools to realise that non-Zanskaris posted to Zanskar have a hard time staying at their post. Lets hope the standard of education continues to improve in Zanskar and more educated Zanskaris choose to return and invest their skills in the future of this remote area.

Thanks to Marco Vasta for this link.

moderate snow reported in Zanskar

Seb Mankelow — 2008-02-08T17:36:42+00:00

Zanskar appears to have missed the bulk of the snowfall that has ground parts of Kashmir to a halt. Zanskaris are still moving between villages and many ignored weather warnings and travelled to Phugtal for Gustor. The weather has however delayed helicopter travel between Padum and Kargil and a number of Zanskaris are planning to set out on the chaddar should flights fail to resume before Tuesday the 12th.

snow!

Seb Mankelow — 2008-02-06T19:35:30+00:00

Both the BBC's South Asia site and the Daily Excelsior are reporting bumper amounts of snow in the region. Although neither report specifically mentions Zanskar it is pretty safe to assume that the region as a whole has received a fairly generous snowfall. This may well spell disaster (probably the army helicopter) for many chaddar trekkers as the avalanche danger will increase at certain points along the Zanskar river. Moreover, snow on the chaddar generally equates to lots of water...

Looking on the bright side, farmers across the region will welcome the snowfall, especially those in water short settlements such as Kumi and Pishu. Lets hope the locusts stay away and don't take advantage of the inevitable flush of greenery next summer.

Govt to probe bunglings in work on Zanskar road

Seb Mankelow — 2008-01-18T11:00:22+00:00

Reported in the Daily Excelsior it would appear that the funding of highway maintenance on the road linking Padum with Kargil is going to receive some extra scrutiny. Accusations made at State level suggest that whilst an ample maintenance budget exists, a large percentage of funding has not been released by senior engineers and officers at Roads and Buildings. Having travelled this road a number of times in recent years my bruised coccyx can vouch for the fact that significant work is needed. The surfaced section leaving Kargil is in a poor state of disrepair prompting debate as to whether a pot-holled surfaced road is better than a smooth unsurfaced dirt track. Either way it needs some serious attention. My only hope is that any funds released to Padum's PWD are carefully audited as it is common knowledge that a significant percentage of budgeted funds are siphoned off in amounts corresponding to engineering rank.

The snow has arrived

Seb Mankelow — 2008-01-09T09:59:04+00:00

There are rumours of a heavy snowfall in the Kargil area on January 8th. It is possible that the Pensi La has finally closed, so if you are a chaddar walker banking on a ride out to Kargil, and then Leh, you might have to begin contemplating the return journey down the river.

Confirmation - Pensi La is still open!

Seb Mankelow — 2008-01-02T14:10:01+00:00

I have just this minute received an email from Zanskar stating that a vehicle left for Kargil this morning - the Pensi La remains open. There is little snow (as you would expect), it is cold with a little wind. So, perhaps this year chaddar-trekkers arriving in Padum can - for the first time ever - take the bus out to Kargil and then Leh. Failing that one could always try the weekly air service that has now commenced between Kargil and Jammu, although, as this is administered by the military I suspect this service is not open to foreign nationals.

Cold nights suggest a good chaddar?

Seb Mankelow — 2008-01-02T08:32:01+00:00

Reported in the Daily Excelsior Ladakh is currently experiencing seasonally low temperatures, especially at night. For all those setting out on the chaddar in the next few weeks this may well be good news, although be aware that very cold nights tend to force water out onto the surface of the river. Reports from Zanskar also suggest that the Pensi La may still be open as there is a marked absence of snow. This has not however been confirmed for the last couple of weeks so conditions may well have changed.
Happy New Year!