here's a few pics from the Pensi La, this was the state of play around the 13th June (thanks to David Shackleton for these).

Looks like fun and games...


All pictures credit: D. Shackleton.

There are rumours that the platform on which the monks perform their cham at the Karsha Gustor festival has been damaged (perhaps in the recent heavy rains) and as a consequence the masked dances will not be performed this year. Given the revenue that the summer Gustor festival makes for the monastery I am sure a solution will be found! I recall a lecturer of mine once commenting on adherence to Buddhist doctrine, he said "in Mahayana, anything is possible". We shall have to wait for the 8th & 9th of July to find out.

The Pensi La opened today to light traffic.

One can almost hear the sigh of relief, not only from Zanskar-pa wanting to get in and out, but also the regional administration who have been barraged with complaints and demonstrations in recent weeks.

Essential commodities in Zanskar, with the exception of kerosene, have been low for the last couple of months (documented here in an article on the REACH site) and in recent weeks there have been demonstrations in Zanskar and Kargil. In Zanskar the Ama Tsogspa marched on the SDM's office and demanded the Pensi La be opened earlier and essential commodities be made available, whilst in Kargil 50 or so Zanskari students studying in Jammu and Chandigarh demonstrated with similar demands. In what was probably something of a damage limitation exercise the students were later offered free board and lodging from Kargil's Hill Council.

If it is indeed possible to create a 'tradition' in 30 years then traditionally the road over the Pensi La was usually opened to traffic on or around the first weeks of June. Only in recent years (usually thanks to less snowfall, not greater snow clearing efficiency) has the road been opening as early as the first week of May.

As I have suggested before on Zanskar News and Views it doesn't take long for expectations to change, and for once staunchly independent folk to become accustomed to the perks of modernisation. I remember trekking into Padum in 1996 in early June and finding nothing but out-of-date custard in the Padum/Mane Ringmo bazaar. In 1996 I believe this was considered normal. We trekked out to Lamayuru living on porridge, rice, chapati and green water from a few spinach leaves. Needless to say the double egg and chips on arrival in Leh was not a good idea...

Just for the record there were only four MI-17 flights into Zanskar this winter, but presumably goods were stockpiled as usual towards the end of last summer. It's not clear why the shortage arose, perhaps the final deliveries for stockpiling were not made, perhaps someone underestimated the quantities required, perhaps more people are over-wintering in Zanskar, or perhaps people are just consuming more?

There are reports of heavy rain in the Indus Valley and fresh snowfall in Zanskar. Buildings, including several monasteries have apparently been damaged and one serious casualty has also been reported. Information would suggest that the spring snow was wet and much of the precipitation at lower levels fell as heavy rain. There are reports that several buildings at Phugtal monastery have been washed away and the wall paintings on the wall of the assembly hall at Sani monastery have also been damaged. Only last year Sani began a comprehensive renovation programme of the south west corner of the main structure and repairs to the covered walkway.

The Pensi La remains closed (presumably with even more snow) and despite food and kerosene being stockpiled through the summer and autumn of 2009 supplies of 'essential commodities' are also thought to be scarce in the Valley.

Snow at this time (maybe at Shade) may well delay ploughing and sowing although the subsequent melt water for irrigation is always welcome, rain on lower ground shouldn't pose too many problems for farmers in Central Zanskar.

The Pensi La is expected to be closed for another two weeks.