http://www.sebmankelow.com/index.htmlnews and views from Zanskar, Ladakh, North India.enseb@sebmankelow.comCopyright 2009 J. Seb Mankelow2010-08-25T20:08:03+01:00 hourly 1 2000-01-01T12:00+00:00 Wed, 25 Aug 2010 20:26:58 +0100seb@sebmankelow.comNone2010-08-25T20:08:03+01:00http://www.sebmankelow.com/Zanskarnews_files/2065768c8dd767b15da5b4fd10a93489-20.html#unique-entry-id-20http://www.sebmankelow.com/Zanskarnews_files/2065768c8dd767b15da5b4fd10a93489-20.html#unique-entry-id-20not fully booked.

A report in the Daily Excelsior also claims that the road link between Kargil and Zanskar was restored by August 12, well in advance of the estimated four weeks! Zanskaris will be happy, especially those overseeing the summer stockpiling of goods at the Government Store.

Oh, and a cautionary word for anyone imminently embarking on a trek, be prepared for makeshift paths and bridges, some of which may involve some tricky traversing. The heavy rainfall will almost certainly have modified trail conditions on most treks.]]>seb@sebmankelow.comNone2010-08-10T22:13:56+01:00http://www.sebmankelow.com/Zanskarnews_files/77893fed85fea139b8fce9eb03aa9156-19.html#unique-entry-id-19http://www.sebmankelow.com/Zanskarnews_files/77893fed85fea139b8fce9eb03aa9156-19.html#unique-entry-id-19More details are now available regarding the evacuation of trekkers in Zanskar. The 81 tourists were evacuated from Skyu Markha area. However, the death of six foreign tourists has also been reported from the afore mentioned area and the Hinju trekking route. 151 trekkers have also safely reached Lamayuru.]]>seb@sebmankelow.comNone2010-08-10T07:55:21+01:00http://www.sebmankelow.com/Zanskarnews_files/13845c00aa537bc67424caba10a70e7d-18.html#unique-entry-id-18http://www.sebmankelow.com/Zanskarnews_files/13845c00aa537bc67424caba10a70e7d-18.html#unique-entry-id-1881 tourists and 6 local tour operators have been airlifted from Zanskar by the IAF. Apparently this was undertaken in a record 62 sorties taking 5.5 hours between Leh and Zanskar. Although the exact location was unclear reports suggest that the groups were trekkers and were not collected from central Zanskar.

Communications (mobile phone) in Zanskar remain down, due mainly to the disruption of the BSNL network in Leh.]]>seb@sebmankelow.comNone2010-08-08T21:15:52+01:00http://www.sebmankelow.com/Zanskarnews_files/0635f3b28d0e4a1540c2bed82ed8289b-17.html#unique-entry-id-17http://www.sebmankelow.com/Zanskarnews_files/0635f3b28d0e4a1540c2bed82ed8289b-17.html#unique-entry-id-17Further to the post below the UK Foreign and Commonwealth Office, and similar Government advisories in Canada and Australia are advising people (tourists) not to travel to Leh and surrounding areas. For more info check out the FCO site and this Times of India news story.

Ignoring this advice may invalidate your travel insurance. Besides, this is good advice, your visit could just be a further burden on already stretched resources. Looking at the reports I would be inclined to reschedule any imminent visit to next year. ]]>seb@sebmankelow.comNone2010-08-08T20:04:14+01:00http://www.sebmankelow.com/Zanskarnews_files/9314f8f66d7e170365f1907298b3171d-16.html#unique-entry-id-16http://www.sebmankelow.com/Zanskarnews_files/9314f8f66d7e170365f1907298b3171d-16.html#unique-entry-id-16The reports now coming from Leh put the toll at 150 fatalities and more than 300 still missing. The Indian media is covering the story with regular updates and video footage posted online. The picture is grim. For more detail just Google 'Leh flooding'.

Whilst the worst flooding and resulting mudslides were restricted to Leh area, Choglamsar, Phyang and Nimu, a much wider area has also been affected. There is no road access to Leh District and bridges are also out in Kargil District. Heavy rain has fallen across the entire region, including Spiti.

Zanskar has also been affected although there are no casualties reported from there as yet. Property constructed near the stream that divides Karsha was damaged but safely evacuated. However, around 13Km of road between Rangdum and Parkachick has been disrupted and estimates are that it will take a minimum of four weeks to repair. This means that there is currently no road access to Zanskar. As is often the case groups will be walking across the slides and catching transport waiting at the temporary roadheads. However, if you are planning on visiting be warned, I suspect supplies of fresh food in Zanskar will get very low whilst the road is out.

Presumably there were also groups out trekking through this period of heavy rain. High water and washed out trails will no doubt hamper trekkers completing their treks. Of course roads are also out so getting back to Leh, or heading out to Manali or Srinagar, may also be problematic.

A Flood Control Room has been set up in Leh and anyone trying to trace friends and family can call these numbers, although I suspect these numbers are mainly for Leh/Indus Valley enquiries and will shed little light on groups that are out trekking in remote areas.

99069 90613
99069 90833
99069 90807
99069 83544
99069 90748
99069 90835
99069 90787

Satellite phone: 00870 7636 13623]]>seb@sebmankelow.comNone2010-08-06T08:13:29+01:00http://www.sebmankelow.com/Zanskarnews_files/a28d4e6731f5c81c0e0ba29f391fb61f-15.html#unique-entry-id-15http://www.sebmankelow.com/Zanskarnews_files/a28d4e6731f5c81c0e0ba29f391fb61f-15.html#unique-entry-id-15Reports are emerging from Ladakh that there has been extensive and sudden flooding in and around Leh. All road and air connections to Ladakh have been affected and the Daily Excelsior today reports 59 fatalities in the Leh area. More on the story here (this link will expire as soon as the story is archived, I will update it soon...). I have tried contacting friends in Zanskar but have had no luck as yet as phone and internet services are also disrupted. If anyone has any news I would be grateful for any updates!]]>seb@sebmankelow.comNone2010-07-26T21:16:39+01:00http://www.sebmankelow.com/Zanskarnews_files/16e1c6df61cba05e21cb250666dc0d3d-14.html#unique-entry-id-14http://www.sebmankelow.com/Zanskarnews_files/16e1c6df61cba05e21cb250666dc0d3d-14.html#unique-entry-id-14A meeting in Srinagar in June of the Task Force on Health Sector Reforms advocated the expansion of telemedecine into Ladakh, specifically, Leh, Kargil and Zanskar. Telemedecine - the delivery of health-related services and information using telecommunications technologies (video conferencing etc.) would potentially revolutionise treatment in Zanskar, although one cannot help but ask whether communications in Zanskar are reliable for such a system to operate. Saying that, the broadband speed in Padum is faster than my connection in the UK...

Perhaps even more fundamental is that telemedicine in Zanskar may well require the complete overhaul of Padum's basic medical facilities. Unfortunately ideas once again appear to exceed the capacity of the existing infrastructure, although, if the scheme prompts the improvement of medical facilities in Padum, so much the better.

You can read more about the story here.

]]>seb@sebmankelow.comNone2010-07-26T21:04:33+01:00http://www.sebmankelow.com/Zanskarnews_files/3e372c5127711d3f6e3e1d917496baa2-13.html#unique-entry-id-13http://www.sebmankelow.com/Zanskarnews_files/3e372c5127711d3f6e3e1d917496baa2-13.html#unique-entry-id-13Karsha Gustor did indeed pass off this year with no cham. For the first time in living memory, and perhaps for centuries, Gustor at Karsha monastery was celebrated without the masked dances. This apparently was due to the previously reported damaged platform area. Clearly the crores of rupees earmarked from the Zanskar Development Authority for 'gonpa restoration' have yet to reach Karsha's cham platform!]]>seb@sebmankelow.comNone2010-06-29T20:46:58+01:00http://www.sebmankelow.com/Zanskarnews_files/3de093f1bbc30c2151435888de6f8df7-12.html#unique-entry-id-12http://www.sebmankelow.com/Zanskarnews_files/3de093f1bbc30c2151435888de6f8df7-12.html#unique-entry-id-12here's a few pics from the Pensi La, this was the state of play around the 13th June (thanks to David Shackleton for these).

Looks like fun and games...


All pictures credit: D. Shackleton.]]>seb@sebmankelow.comNone2010-06-16T12:32:11+01:00http://www.sebmankelow.com/Zanskarnews_files/277408a752e2f026efd604f0e6997753-11.html#unique-entry-id-11http://www.sebmankelow.com/Zanskarnews_files/277408a752e2f026efd604f0e6997753-11.html#unique-entry-id-11There are rumours that the platform on which the monks perform their cham at the Karsha Gustor festival has been damaged (perhaps in the recent heavy rains) and as a consequence the masked dances will not be performed this year. Given the revenue that the summer Gustor festival makes for the monastery I am sure a solution will be found! I recall a lecturer of mine once commenting on adherence to Buddhist doctrine, he said "in Mahayana, anything is possible". We shall have to wait for the 8th & 9th of July to find out.

]]>seb@sebmankelow.comNone2010-06-10T22:14:05+01:00http://www.sebmankelow.com/Zanskarnews_files/cd00728ece7ebacff89e6b3ebd707fb4-10.html#unique-entry-id-10http://www.sebmankelow.com/Zanskarnews_files/cd00728ece7ebacff89e6b3ebd707fb4-10.html#unique-entry-id-10Reported today on the BBC south Asia site, Steve Berry of Mountain Kingdoms is fund-raising to save the traditional twig bridges that are found in some parts of Zanskar. Once commonplace these fairly bizarre structures are now in decline, Steve comments in the article that he knows of three. I'm not sure exactly which three he is referring to, I know two are in Shun, possibly one in Lungnak, it is difficult to say as some bridges are now a hybrid of twigs, timber and wire etc.

I recall crossing an almost newly finished bridge of twisted birch in 1998, a phenomenal structure that spanned the Niri River below Shade. I recall thinking at the time that it was a privilege to cross as both the construction techniques and the will to make such bridges was no doubt in decline.

To give you a better idea of the type of structure, here's a few pics.

Well done Steve, good luck with the project!


]]>seb@sebmankelow.comNone2010-06-09T20:09:06+01:00http://www.sebmankelow.com/Zanskarnews_files/afef49d325e52cc4d16ed6760aab15e5-9.html#unique-entry-id-9http://www.sebmankelow.com/Zanskarnews_files/afef49d325e52cc4d16ed6760aab15e5-9.html#unique-entry-id-9
The Pensi La opened today to light traffic.

One can almost hear the sigh of relief, not only from Zanskar-pa wanting to get in and out, but also the regional administration who have been barraged with complaints and demonstrations in recent weeks.

Essential commodities in Zanskar, with the exception of kerosene, have been low for the last couple of months (documented here in an article on the REACH site) and in recent weeks there have been demonstrations in Zanskar and Kargil. In Zanskar the Ama Tsogspa marched on the SDM's office and demanded the Pensi La be opened earlier and essential commodities be made available, whilst in Kargil 50 or so Zanskari students studying in Jammu and Chandigarh demonstrated with similar demands. In what was probably something of a damage limitation exercise the students were later offered free board and lodging from Kargil's Hill Council.

If it is indeed possible to create a 'tradition' in 30 years then traditionally the road over the Pensi La was usually opened to traffic on or around the first weeks of June. Only in recent years (usually thanks to less snowfall, not greater snow clearing efficiency) has the road been opening as early as the first week of May.

As I have suggested before on Zanskar News and Views it doesn't take long for expectations to change, and for once staunchly independent folk to become accustomed to the perks of modernisation. I remember trekking into Padum in 1996 in early June and finding nothing but out-of-date custard in the Padum/Mane Ringmo bazaar. In 1996 I believe this was considered normal. We trekked out to Lamayuru living on porridge, rice, chapati and green water from a few spinach leaves. Needless to say the double egg and chips on arrival in Leh was not a good idea...

Just for the record there were only four MI-17 flights into Zanskar this winter, but presumably goods were stockpiled as usual towards the end of last summer. It's not clear why the shortage arose, perhaps the final deliveries for stockpiling were not made, perhaps someone underestimated the quantities required, perhaps more people are over-wintering in Zanskar, or perhaps people are just consuming more?]]>seb@sebmankelow.comNone2010-06-02T06:51:54+01:00http://www.sebmankelow.com/Zanskarnews_files/fd55f2079f5cdd4256552bffc92c31bd-8.html#unique-entry-id-8http://www.sebmankelow.com/Zanskarnews_files/fd55f2079f5cdd4256552bffc92c31bd-8.html#unique-entry-id-8
There are reports of heavy rain in the Indus Valley and fresh snowfall in Zanskar. Buildings, including several monasteries have apparently been damaged and one serious casualty has also been reported. Information would suggest that the spring snow was wet and much of the precipitation at lower levels fell as heavy rain. There are reports that several buildings at Phugtal monastery have been washed away and the wall paintings on the wall of the assembly hall at Sani monastery have also been damaged. Only last year Sani began a comprehensive renovation programme of the south west corner of the main structure and repairs to the covered walkway.

The Pensi La remains closed (presumably with even more snow) and despite food and kerosene being stockpiled through the summer and autumn of 2009 supplies of 'essential commodities' are also thought to be scarce in the Valley.

Snow at this time (maybe at Shade) may well delay ploughing and sowing although the subsequent melt water for irrigation is always welcome, rain on lower ground shouldn't pose too many problems for farmers in Central Zanskar.

The Pensi La is expected to be closed for another two weeks.]]>seb@sebmankelow.comNone2010-05-24T15:00:25+01:00http://www.sebmankelow.com/Zanskarnews_files/e4acdda1f80e73b41863ac92b66c04b0-7.html#unique-entry-id-7http://www.sebmankelow.com/Zanskarnews_files/e4acdda1f80e73b41863ac92b66c04b0-7.html#unique-entry-id-7
Albeit somewhat late, my limited grapevine prompted me to Google 'BBC Human Planet' and 'Ladakh'. The results yielded a couple of revealing blog entries from a photographer and freelance cameraman, both working on the BBC's Human Planet series.

The Zanskar River trek has accommodated a number of film crews in the past, and in my opinion few if any have captured the majesty of the gorge. The latest angle from the BBC, filmed this February gone, is to follow a school group from Zangla heading out to Leh, hardly original, but what will be interesting is whether the finished footage acknowledges the many tourist trekking groups that are now sharing the river with Zanskaris. I'll admit that on my last two journeys on the river in 2001 and 2005 I made efforts to avoid photographing the hordes of brightly coloured trekkers, of which I was one. On my first two chaddars in the winters of 1994 and 1995 it wasn't a problem, save one or two European/North American groups we pretty much had the river to ourselves. A lot has changed since then, but will the popularity of the river trek and the slowly encroaching road make the final BBC cut?

Sometimes what isn't filmed is just as revealing as what is.]]>seb@sebmankelow.comNone2010-05-24T14:59:21+01:00http://www.sebmankelow.com/Zanskarnews_files/64e0c43e6cafca1b2b2f05344c273ef6-6.html#unique-entry-id-6http://www.sebmankelow.com/Zanskarnews_files/64e0c43e6cafca1b2b2f05344c273ef6-6.html#unique-entry-id-6
The latest projected date of opening for the Pensi La is the first week of June.]]>seb@sebmankelow.comNone2010-05-15T20:00:58+01:00http://www.sebmankelow.com/Zanskarnews_files/e8a9789dad6568148d58c0940be23b24-5.html#unique-entry-id-5http://www.sebmankelow.com/Zanskarnews_files/e8a9789dad6568148d58c0940be23b24-5.html#unique-entry-id-5
Whilst both the Leh-Manali road and Leh-Srinagar roads have been open (subject to the odd Spring snowfall) the Pensi La on the Zanskar-Kargil road remains closed. Apparently, for Zanskaris wanting to get in or out of the Valley, it takes around 10 hours to walk across the pass on foot (longer for most other mortal beings) and then with a bit of luck walkers can hitch a ride on the road. Snow clearing is underway but there is no sign yet of an imminent opening.

This update on road conditions was sent by email from a friend's mobile phone in Kargil, a handset that no doubt puts my basic £10 Nokia to shame here in the UK. What next? Leh, Nubra and Khaltse block are going Wi-fi (seriously).]]>seb@sebmankelow.comNone2010-04-07T20:56:50+01:00http://www.sebmankelow.com/Zanskarnews_files/13ccdefd568d1ed25d47fea302041231-4.html#unique-entry-id-4http://www.sebmankelow.com/Zanskarnews_files/13ccdefd568d1ed25d47fea302041231-4.html#unique-entry-id-4
Apparently the chaddar - in this case the frozen river Zanskar - was still being travelled well into March this year. Two friends from Padum travelled out to Leh in two days on the 14th/15th March. I suspect chancing it is viable if you live in the area and have few other options to get out to Leh or Kargil. However, for those one-off visits for non-residents of Zanskar (i.e. if you are flying in from Europe or North America for winter trekking) a safer, more reliable date to travel on the river would still be Jan/Feb.]]>seb@sebmankelow.comNone2010-03-29T21:56:03+01:00http://www.sebmankelow.com/Zanskarnews_files/5dcaf00aede84b17e1ea7070535b4b89-3.html#unique-entry-id-3http://www.sebmankelow.com/Zanskarnews_files/5dcaf00aede84b17e1ea7070535b4b89-3.html#unique-entry-id-3
Minister of Tourism Rigzin Jora has announced the intention to exploit solar energy in Zanskar. A survey has apparently been conducted by 'Science and Technology Department', a nodal agency working for Union Ministry for Renewable Energy.

Zanskar certainly gets its fair share of sunshine and the majority of households already enjoy the excellent Tata/BP solar rechargeable fluorescent lanterns. I wonder however how large PV arrays would fare in Zanskar's notoriously harsh climate. The Valley already sports a wide selection of idle technology waiting for spare parts. I recall visiting one winter, admittedly some years ago now, and finding that the diesel generator that (still) provides electricity for Padum and neighbouring towns had been out of action for 15 months for want of a spare part. Not an unusual scenario.

On the bright side (no pun intended), solar may however offer a valuable year-round supply of power, unlike the existing, somewhat temperamental mini-hydro plants that are restricted to Zanskar's brief summer. Indeed, for a region where frost renders hydro generators useless for 6 months of every year the preference for hydro-electricity is a curious one. One only has to look at the repeated re-commissioning of the Sani mini-hydel project...

Wind? now that might be a better choice. As long as we are not talking cutting-edge turbines the technology is potentially more robust than solar, easier to maintain and reparable with local know-how and non-specialist parts. I know where I would put my money.]]>seb@sebmankelow.comNone2010-02-28T13:37:52+00:00http://www.sebmankelow.com/Zanskarnews_files/a9a6f7654c9d8ecabbe0c1911e554366-2.html#unique-entry-id-2http://www.sebmankelow.com/Zanskarnews_files/a9a6f7654c9d8ecabbe0c1911e554366-2.html#unique-entry-id-2
In a meeting held in Kargil on the 26th Feb it was decided that due to unfavourable weather conditions, and in particular the continued threat of avalanche in certain areas, the winter schools vacation for both government and private schools has been extended to the 10th March. The meeting was held under the Chairmanship of CEC LAHDC Kachoo Ahmad Ali Khan. Steps were also taken to ensure that once schooling commences on the 11th March teachers are at their designated place of work.

This latter detail is of particular relevance in Zanskar where even Ladakhi/Zanskari teachers assigned to outlying villages routinely leave their posting for extended periods of term whilst continuing to draw their salary. It is not unusual for teaching responsibilities to be handed to one of the elder students during these periods of absence. One of the solutions to this persistent problem is to recruit teachers from the village in which they will teach, thus the incentive to leave for family commitments is removed. Of course this is a little chicken and egg as consistent education at the village level is required for the children of the needy villages to progress into teaching careers.

]]>seb@sebmankelow.comNone2010-02-09T21:09:55+00:00http://www.sebmankelow.com/Zanskarnews_files/c3698f26f97c9a49ad777c8565417619-1.html#unique-entry-id-1http://www.sebmankelow.com/Zanskarnews_files/c3698f26f97c9a49ad777c8565417619-1.html#unique-entry-id-1
A cold snap accompanied with heavy snow has hit J&K State, including Zanskar and Leh. Farmers in the area will be very happy, but reports from Leh document the displeasure at having to clear snow from flat roofs, the spiralling prices of firewood kerosene and fresh vegetables, and the unreliable supply of drinking water and (hydro) electricity. I am sure if I was living in Leh I would also be complaining, however, it is interesting to note how quickly people's perceptions and expectations change. The situation in Leh reads like a normal day for most Zanskaris in winter, and it wasn't long ago that it was also normal for the inhabitants of Leh. Expectations have been quicker and easier to change than the capacity of the infrastructure to deliver. Of course this somewhat universal observation is not restricted to Leh and its inhabitants, I was only grumbling earlier this evening that my internet connection was not as fast as it should be (again). Yet in the case of Ladakh the rate of change has been rapid, and the baseline of what is and isn't considered acceptable has certainly kept pace. Leh is seen as a yard-stick by many Zanskaris, the 'bright lights and big city' is something to aspire to. And whilst the Zanskaris would probably laugh at the current 'discomfort' in Leh, they mustn't forget that they too have set a course for that future.]]>seb@sebmankelow.comHome2010-01-21T09:27:36+00:00http://www.sebmankelow.com/Zanskarnews_files/98220d9c4150fe7a73b999f091a3fe4c-0.html#unique-entry-id-0http://www.sebmankelow.com/Zanskarnews_files/98220d9c4150fe7a73b999f091a3fe4c-0.html#unique-entry-id-0
I've just received some news from Zanskar, in particular the details of a reasonably dramatic event that took place in the first week of December last year. Although a bit late I thought I would relay the general gist of the story here.

Every year, when the Pensi La first closes, there are always a number of Zanskaris gathered in Kargil trying to return home by road or infrequent helicopter service. This year was no different and by the first week of December there was quite a build-up of Zanskaris waiting for news on the latest travel conditions. Fortunately, because the snowfall had been relatively light there was a chance that the Pensi La might reopen allowing a brief window of opportunity for people to travel home by road. This indeed turned out to be the case and after hearing confirmation on local radio around 30 Tata Sumos, both hired and private, left Kargil crammed full of Zanskaris. I can picture the convoy; jackets and gonchas squashed against steamy glass, the smell of a leaking jerry can, and the incessant noise of Ladakhi pop music (try as I might I still can't stand most forms of Ladakhi music).

The road condition was however much worse than expected and the vehicles floundered on the pass. Many of the vehicles were still travelling in convoy and once stuck a number of groups left the vehicles and started walking. The Zanskaris spent what was described as a 'chilly' night on the pass with little equipment for such an adventure. Groups tried to shift the snow manually to get the vehicles through but the wind drifted snow back across the road as fast as it was removed.

Eventually those that walked across were met the following day by a 'rescue party' sent from the Zanskar side (I have no idea how this was coordinated, maybe by mobile phone, or the radio post at Rangdum?) and they finally arrived in Central Zanskar almost 48 hours after leaving Kargil. An epic journey by all accounts but no doubt taken in the stride of most Zanskaris involved.

Although not superhuman Zanskaris are generally tough and resourceful. Even in the worst situations they also manage to laugh. For example someone losing a glove in the wind, or falling over whilst trying to clear snow for a Sumo's wheel would have brought the house down!

Their journey home puts the recent snow chaos in the UK into perspective. Next time I look out of the window wondering if a gritter has gone by I'll spare a thought for dramas unfolding on the Pensi La!]]>